Into the wild and back

In the frame of mountain and polar research – a thematic focus at the Institute of Geography and Spatial Research at the University of Graz – I took part as a biologist in a student excursion to East Greenland led by Wolfgang Schöner and Jakob Abermann in the summer of 2024. Two years before the University of Graz signed a cooperation agreement with the University of Copenhagen with the goal to extend activities at the Sermilik research station, which is located on the island of Ammassalik in southeastern Greenland and will be maintained jointly by both universities. Thanks to generous private support, it was possible to construct a new building to efficiently establish Austria’s polar research in the 21st century under the umbrella of the Austrian Polar Research Institute.

Location of Sermilik Station in Eastern Greenland (65.68204, -37.91436; Google Maps)

By plane, we landed at Kulusuk Airport on July 25, 2024, coming from Iceland. From there we went by boat to Tasiilaq, which is the largest settlement in East Greenland with around 2000 inhabitants. The approximately 2800 km long coast of East Greenland is very sparsely populated with a total of 3500 inhabitants and the distant settlements can only be reached by air or by water, if sea ice permits. The East Greenland current constantly transports icebergs and sea ice floes towards south, which fit together like loose puzzle pieces along the coast. Crossing this belt that was exceptionally dense in the summer of 2024 with boats requires a lot of experience; thus, we went towards Tasiilaq in an adventurous slalom. The counterpoint was provided by numerous minke whales, which glided calmly through the water with elegant movements.

Unexpected amounts of sea ice covered the Sermilik Fjord (© K. Steinegger)

We spent the first few days getting to know the area around Tasiilaq. The village has a functioning infrastructure with a small port, school, hospital, police station, sports facilities, post office, two supermarkets and a limited road network. However, the social situation of the population, which is predominantly Inuit, is difficult. Job possibilities are created with a strengthening tourism, on the other hand the original way of life, suffering already since the Danish Christianization, has dissolved more and more over the past decades. A local history museum still bears witness to Inuit history and in a nearby workshop, tupilaks, figures carved from bone, are offered as souvenirs. Hikes in the area led us to the local mountain of Tasiilaq (Qaqqartivakajik). From there we could study the geomorphology of the whole bay, which is crowned by rugged peaks. We also explored the impressive flower valley southwest of Tasiilaq, which is characterized by a great variety of arctic vegetation including its mosses and lichens.

The student group from Graz walking on Mittivakkat glacier (© M. Grube)

Taking measurements on the Mittivakkat glacier (© M. Grube)

The daily hikes on the glacier and in the surroundings of the research station were deeply impressive for many of us, with stunning views of the Sermilik fjord and the Greenland Ice Sheet behind. There was also something new for the leaders who had known the area for quite a while. Very close to the station, on an island accessible through a sandbank at low tide, we found the remains of three Inuit houses, which were apparently not indicated on any map. One encounter remained in lasting memory for all excursion participants: During a hike in the direction of a rock outcrop, which rises from the upper end of the Mittivakkat glacier, a polar bear coming up the mountain first stood in our way back and then disappeared behind a hilltop. Although the bear was not close, the suddenly tense situation eased only after a few drone overflights, which assured us that the bear was taking a break and fell asleep.

Encounter with a polar bear (© M. Grube)

While the glacier area may look like a recreational zone to a botanist, there is microbial life here as well, for example in the water-filled cryoconite holes and the often visible dark dust layers on the glaciers. However, life is more clearly developed in the valley soles below the glacier. There, different vegetation units alternate depending on the ecological situation. Together with an accompanying biology student, we took a closer look at the diversity of lichens and mosses in the area and studied fungal infections of plants, in particular willows. Overall, interactions of fungi with plants in a changing climate could offer lots of research possibilities, for example, to better understand the epidemiology of plant diseases under prolongued vegetation periods. It was also the first time in my life that I had an armed escort during my work. That was advisable, because in the meantime we realized that the polar bear had left its sleeping place.

Lush lichen vegetation in the vicinity of the Sermilik station (© M. Grube)

Even though the days just below the Arctic Circle may still be very long at the beginning of August, time flew by. A final boat trip took us to the other side of the Sermilik fjord, where we were able to take a closer look at a part of the inland ice shield calving into the sea. On the subsequent trip back to Kulusuk we were impressed by a large pod of humpback whales passing near our boats. It seemed as if they were waving at us with their tail fins to come back. But first we have to evaluate the data obtained at home. Some of those will certainly raise new scientific questions that may be addressed in future research stays.